Eira and Ullanlinna

The two quietest neighbourhoods in central Helsinki sit on the same peninsula, both finished around 1910 when Finland still belonged to Russia. Embassies, doctors and old Helsinki money live here. The streets curve, the houses are Jugend or National Romantic, and in fifteen minutes you walk from apartment blocks to open sea. Most tour groups skip it.

The walk

1. 1

   Johanneksenkirkko

   Korkeavuorenkatu 12

   A red granite neo-gothic church from 1891. The tallest church in Helsinki and rarely busy. Step inside if the door is open, the wooden ceiling is worth the two minutes.

2. 2

   Huvilakatu

   Huvilakatu, between Tehtaankatu and Laivurinkatu

   A short street lined with pastel Jugend townhouses. Nothing is behind them, just a back street, but the facades are the most photographed in Eira.

   Morning light hits them best. Low traffic any time.

3. 3

   Café Ursula

   Ehrenströmintie 3

   Sea terrace café. Overpriced lunch, but the coffee plus a cinnamon bun on the deck with an open view to Suomenlinna is a genuine Helsinki thing to do.

   On summer Sundays locals swim at the rocks below the terrace.

4. 4

   Kaivopuisto

   Kaivopuisto park, south edge

   The big park on the southern tip. The cliffs have unofficial swimming spots in summer and a near-360 view of the sea. On 1 May (Vappu) it fills with students drinking sparkling wine, otherwise it is quiet.

5. 5

   Tähtitorninvuori

   Tähtitorninmäki, near Korkeavuorenkatu

   Small hill with the old astronomical observatory. Climb around the back for a view over the harbour most tourists never find.