Kruununhaka, the old town most visitors miss

Kruununhaka is the oldest block of Helsinki, built on a grid by Carl Ludvig Engel in 1817-1853 when Helsinki was made the new capital. Cruise passengers walk straight past it to the Senate Square and leave. The interesting parts are 100 metres to the side. This is a short walk, better on foot than rushed.

The walk

1. 1

   Senate Square

   Senaatintori

   The Engel square every guidebook has. Five minutes is enough. Helsinki Cathedral steps are a good orientation point.

2. 2

   Kruununhaka courtyards

   Between Kirkkokatu and Mariankatu

   The old town blocks have unmarked internal courtyards, some open during the day. Push on wooden doors on Kirkkokatu 3, 5, 7, 9. If it opens, step through. Locals pass through to cut between streets, tourists almost never know.

   Treat each courtyard as someone's garden. Look, do not picnic. A sign in Finnish means closed.

3. 3

   Kaivopuiston kivi (observatory hill)

   Kopernikuksentie 1

   Less known than Tähtitorninvuori because it is residential. Walk up behind the National Library via Unioninkatu. The view over the harbour is framed by silver birch in summer, bare branches in winter. Quiet at all hours.

4. 4

   National Library

   Unioninkatu 36

   Built by Engel in 1840 to house a copy of every book published in the Russian Empire. The reading hall is open to the public on weekdays. Free. You are in the most beautiful room in Helsinki and few tourists know.

5. 5

   Hakaniemi Market Hall

   Hämeentie 1

   The working people's market hall to the south Market Hall's tourist version. Better prices, better fish counter, better everyday food. Local pensioners shop here.