Suomenlinna, sea fortress you can picnic on

Six inhabited islands, linked by short bridges, fortified by the Swedes in 1748, kept by the Russians, inherited by the Finns. Now a UNESCO site with 800 residents still living in the old barracks. Not a museum, a working small town on a fortress. Locals walk their dogs here. Brings its own surprises.

The walk

1. 1

   HSL public ferry

   Market Square pier (Kauppatori)

   The normal public transport ferry, 15 minutes, included in any HSL day ticket. Skip the "Suomenlinna Sightseeing" tourist ferry, it costs more for the same crossing.

2. 2

   King's Gate

   Kuninkaanportti, east end of the main island chain

   The ceremonial entrance built for Gustav III of Sweden. Walk through it, not around it. The original stone carvings are intact.

3. 3

   Submarine Vesikko

   Susisaari island, east

   A Finnish WW2 submarine preserved on dry land. You can climb inside. Tight if you are tall, memorable at any age. Open May to October.

4. 4

   Suomenlinna church

   Susisaari, centre

   Functioning church and active lighthouse at the same time. The only one in the world. Finnish wedding bookings go years in advance.

5. 5

   The south shore cliffs

   Kustaanmiekka, south end

   The old cannon line, looking straight out to the open Baltic. The cannons are real, the rocks are climbable, the picnic spots are obvious.

   Bring a jacket. Wind here is always two degrees colder than the forecast.

6. 6

   Suomenlinna Brewery

   Suomenlinna C1

   Craft brewery and restaurant in one of the old barracks. Good beer, slow service in summer, worth an hour before the ferry back.